Emanuela Biffi, head of the company’s dyeing division, which consists of 11 employees, recently celebrated her first 18 years at Tollegno 1900. This is a significant achievement for her, as she boasts several medals (of merit) and a record (of gender). Emanuela is, in fact, one of only three women from Biella who hold a management role in a traditionally male-dominated sector.
Indorama Ventures, which owns Filatura di Tollegno, can count on two of the Biella area’s female yarn “dyers” on its staff: an achievement or a responsibility?
Certainly an achievement, considering that the dyeing world is predominantly male. Throughout my professional career, I was able to fill this role because I met people who valued skills over gender, age, or prejudice in general. There’s no doubt, however, that my path, in some ways, was more challenging than that of a colleague of the opposite sex, but my tenacity and passion paid off.
How did you end up at Tollegno 1900?
The company needed a technician among its staff who was familiar with the newly purchased plant, which, when I joined 18 years ago, had only been in operation for a few months. Not only that, but the person they were looking for would also be responsible for training staff during the start-up phase. The owners felt I was the right fit.
How important do you think ongoing training is in your profession?
For this job, comprehensive training is essential, especially initially. It’s important to know not only every task, but also every process in the production cycle in order to understand and apply it. In the second phase, however, what makes the difference is mostly experience, which is often the result of continuous testing. Color correction, in fact, is not a skill that can be taught; it is acquired only through trial and error and evaluation of the results achieved.
You lead a team of 11 people: what does your job actually involve?
Specifically, I manage the staff, the daily dyeing schedule, and troubleshooting the never-ending problems! My goal, and that of my staff, is to try to meet customer color needs, ensuring quality and consistency of the requested shades.
As you’ve pointed out, critical issues are commonplace in your work. What are the biggest challenges you face?
Every human eye has a different color perception, which leads to different shades being seen. The biggest problem arises when, in my opinion, the color is correct and of good quality, but the customer is dissatisfied. To find the solution, however, you must first “see” through the eyes of the consultant and identify the problem they have identified.
A painstaking job that requires commitment and passion…
I have always maintained that those who do my work, however small, are a fundamental part of the realization of large projects. Color makes a difference not only in the perception of things, but also in mood, the choices we make, and even our outlook on life. Through our work, we “conceive,” develop, and see the birth of what will then be used to “impress” others.
A highly responsible job that has undergone profound changes over the years…
In its essence, the profession has not changed, but the perceived value of its work has. While, in the 1970s and 1980s, it was among the most sought-after, today it has practically disappeared. The reasons? The work is certainly demanding, with problems and pressures never lacking, but, on the other hand, it is never boring and can be highly satisfying.
Have new technologies contributed to changing your business?
The world of yarn dyeing has undergone a significant transformation with the arrival of automated systems, which have objectively brought about a significant change. Rather than new technologies, however, I would speak of developments in methods and devices that have allowed us to update and improve the performance of existing systems.
How have innovation, sustainability, and AI impacted the sector?
For us, the real innovation came with the installation of the current system, which relies on a different technology than the previous one. Its impact has also been felt in terms of sustainability, especially considering water, energy, and gas consumption.
Does sustainability extend to other areas as well?
Processing and marketing natural fibers has always had a positive impact on this sector, which today boasts additional added values: traceability and greater control. As far as my work is concerned, however, I have always sought to use products that respect human health and the environment first and foremost, even at the expense of higher-performance products.
