An "inspired" partnership is born in the name of knitwear between Tollegno 1900 and the Venetian consultancy firm

It is written as Groppo and it is a knitwear consultancy firm that makes experimentation its distinctive feature and support for the design, development and production of knitted garments the focus of its business. The partnership with Tollegno 1900, despite having been active for several seasons, found its highest expression during Pitti Filati 93 and 94. “In reality, however – explain Francesca Caverzan and Riccardo Ballarani, co-founders of Groppo Consulting – the Our connection with the brand goes back even further. The first wool used by Groppo Consulting was precisely that Harmony which represents the iconic yarn of Tollegno 1900. We were at the beginning of our business and Harmony seemed like the perfect yarn to start designing, thanks also to the many color variations in stock service . Proposing it to our customers was the next step. However, the consolidation of the relationship occurred when a friend and customer of ours, Chet Lo, began working with this product to create his iconic spikes garments.”

How does Groppo work in practice?

Usually, we start by asking the client we work with to share the moodboard of the collection, so as to analyze the design context. After a visual search, we proceed by selecting the most suitable yarn not only for the mood, but also for the season. The next step coincides with the search for the point, a true turning point in design. We then develop the digital paper pattern, program the sample and start weaving. Subsequently, we subject the piece to treatments, washing and linking with the help of external suppliers. The fitting and the defect removal phase are of fundamental importance in perfecting the prototype, thus preparing it for production which is managed partly internally and partly through collaborations with other weavers.

The entire development arises from the harmony between all the active figures in Groppo…

There are currently four figures: Francesca, Riccardo, Matilde and Nico. Francesca and Matilde dedicate themselves more to design, Riccardo and Nico take care of programming and experiment with stitch search. However, these are fluid roles because it often happens that we interchange tasks so as to make everything more dynamic and increase everyone’s awareness of the various phases of the process.

What are the strong points of your work?

Knitwear represents the meeting between poetry, innovation and technique. The “work in progress” for us is not just an intermediate phase, but an experience that enriches the design itself. Having the machines in the studio, this phase becomes an integral part of our design because it allows us to experiment more with yarns and stitch research.

Why does vanisè play a fundamental role in your work?

Because screen printing was our first obsession. This technique allows us to create projects with a strong graphic impact, without the typical restrictions of jacquard and making the aesthetic less clean.

In the name of experimentation, what goals do you set for yourself?

The first goal is to expand our team in a stable way. We recognize the enthusiasm in many boys and girls to take part in design in a practical and experimental way, and we want to offer opportunities to enhance this passion. Furthermore, expanding our group will not only allow us to tackle new projects and welcome new challenges, but also to look at things from different perspectives.

 

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