28/03/21
Style trends, T Talk, Yarn
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From the development of a 6 hands capsule among Shima Seiki Italia S.p.A, The Woolmark Company and our company to the role of yarns in defining a collection: : Vittorio Branchizio tells

The French writer and philosopher René Daumal  used to argue that “Style is the imprint of what one is in what one does”. His colleague Schopenhauer added saying “The first rule and probably the only one, of good style is that you have something to say: with this rule you go far!” While Nice summarized by saying “Improving the style improves the thinking”. More pragmatic but not less incisive, especially for those that work in the fashion sector, is Giorgio Armani who draws a clear distinction: “fashion is what is suggested and which is often best avoided, style instead is what everyone has and must keep throughout their life” as if to say: to define a fashion you can find an abc guide, but when it comes to style the indications are personal and must be found in what we are.”

Vittorio Branchizio is not far from this vison, his profession is designer but also a little more. “In Shima Seiki I take care of the creative part strictly connected to the development and research. In concrete terms, my task is to contrive processes and techniques that highlight the potential of our machines combined with yarns. All from a design point of view.

An activity in which the imprint must be clear as well as the style, recognizable at a glance

Style is just that: a taste recognizable for its purity and timeless.

How does a collection style born ?

Inspirations are the keystone and are many as well as constantly changing. Personally I let myself be creatively enveloped by everything that excites me: whether it’s art or design, nature or people, attractions happen by observing and taking the time to reflect.

From this perspective it can be deducted that even a yarn can be the ignition fuse of an idea. The reverse path is certainly true: after defining what I want to achieve, I have to choose the material that is best suited to give a shape. What criteria do you follow in your selection?

If we talk about yarn, its characteristics are the fundamental premises. The choice is made however, also considering the goal you want to achieve, the suggestions you want to give. The beauty of knitting is also this: the possibility to create new materials mixing fibers and processing responsible for the final material effect.

A way that was also followed in giving life to the “Wool on the go Tailored Knit” project born from the collaboration among Shima Seiki Italia, The Woolmark Company and Tollegno 1900 that involved the creation of a capsule collection .

In this case we worked using the fiber for excellence : Merino Wool. Its characteristics have made it the best interpreter for this project: 100% natural, renewable, biodegradable, and recyclable, breathable absorbs moisture and it is soft, what more could you ask for? For the capsule I thought of mixing it with other thermos-hardening fibers, thus creating a rigid but soft material that allowed me to create tailored-inspired garments such as jackets and coats or suites that with the Apex programs of maximum precision by Shima Seiki, they are perfect for a man or woman who is always on the move.

What “weight” did the yarns used have in following up this intuition?

Their value and importance was the key to allow us to achieve our intent: I selected Re-Abarth 2/37, 60%merino wool 23 micron 40% recycled nylon among your yarns to build the eco yarn the semi-technical hand feel of final garment and Harmony 4.0 2/48 100% merino wool extrafine. Thanks to its eco-hydro, total easy care (machine washable, and tumble dry) it was ideal for giving substance to our ideas. The fact that it was also high twist and consequent reduction of pilling, had excellent resistance to abrasion were not negligible elements for the selection.

Raw material of excellence, a performing work tool and creativity: what weight do they have in making a collection?

They have a homogeneous weight and none should me missing.

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