Groppo Consulting confirms itself as an excellent partner of Tollegno 1900 for the creation of two projects suspended between experimentation, design and valorisation of natural yarns

There is a close link between Groppo Consulting and Tollegno 1900 as confirmed by the various projects developed by the Venetian knitwear consultancy firm for the brand on the occasion of Pitti Filati. This is confirmed by Francesca Caverzan and Riccardo Ballarani, co-founders of Groppo Consulting. “For Tollegno 1900 we developed the stitch research and two prototypes for Pitti Filati. Together with Chet Lo, friend, customer and designer, we have in fact created four stitches with the Flaxy, Sultano, IceWool and Biolino yarns and a prototype. After the meeting with Tollegno 1900, we also decided to create our own piece, because the moodboard proposed by the brand was in tune with that of a parallel project of ours”.

Let’s proceed in order, starting from Chet Lo’s head…

With Chet we developed a project in which the ruffle becomes the protagonist of the garment, abstractly echoing the horizontal cuts of the birch, the starting point of the research. The colours, the ton sur ton vanisè and the regular graphics are evocative of the retro-futuristic characteristics of the brand.

Two yarns were used: Icewool and Sultano. What are the reasons for the choice?

Sultano and Icewool proved to be perfect yarns because they allowed us to develop a garment with a soft feel, in contrast with the regularity of the ruffles. In particular, Sultano, being a silk-wool blend, was chosen for its softness, while Icewool, being a twisted yarn and therefore drier, has the merit of bringing out the material aspect of the ruffles. The piece was developed on 12 gauge to keep it lighter, fresher and suitable for spring summer.

Where did the project that directly concerned you draw inspiration from?

For all our designs we often find great inspiration from the plant world. A clear example of this is the “Betulla Jumper”, a creation with which we wanted to give a rougher and more camouflage interpretation of the Birch, adopting an organic and irregular graphic in contrast with the sculptural aspect given by the yarn. The two Flexy yarns, thanks to the combination of wool and linen, preserve the idea of ​​the robustness of the trunk, while the use of Sultano in vanisè gives softness to the inside of the garment, making it pleasant on the skin. Finally, the paper pattern reflects the natural irregularity of the trunk and is emphasized by the external stitching.

A true “work” in which Flexy plays a non-secondary role. What made him fit to translate your vision into a real garment?

Flexy has proven to be the ideal yarn for creating a garment that retains a pleasant rigidity, while maintaining a 100% natural composition, thanks to the presence of the combination of wool and linen.

After the two projects developed for Tollegno 1900, from a futuristic perspective, would you have another “experimentation” that you would like to carry out together with the brand?

We appreciate the opportunity to be able to give a different perspective to natural yarns with a long tradition of craftsmanship. The variety of products, where wool is combined with other fibers to give unique characteristics to the yarns, allows us to explore a wide spectrum of possibilities in a sustainable way. We would like to create a broader project with the brand, developing, for example, more garments so as to clearly communicate our vision and explore the potential of the yarns themselves.

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