At Pitti Immagine Filati 93 presented for D-House laboratorio urbano a performance capable of mixing technology and creativity, craftsmanship and innovation also using yarns from Filatura di Tollegno 1900: Matteo Thiela, a multifaceted artist born in Milan but living in Turin, gave shape to his visions with uniquely designed clothes, made using a production method patented by himself. From this experimentation “Knitting the future” took shape, realizing a new frontier for the world of knitwear. The project is narrated by Thiela himself, born in 1972 and with solid experience in the world of fashion as confirmed by some of his most significant collaborations: between 1993 and 1995 he lived in Germany and collaborated with William Forsythe and the Frankfurt Ballet; between 1993 and 1998 Carla Sozzani appoints him responsible for the NN collection and designs OZEN (global sartorial project), in 1999 he lands in Loro Piana, GBR and Ter e Bantine and, in the same year, designs, presents and sells TOY, a collection composed from dresses and knitwear using glass yarns. His path continued in 2000 as a consultant for the fur collection of Carlo Tivioli and for the knitwear collection of Stefano Mortari. However, the turning point began in 2001 when the creative designed the first collection of women’s clothing bearing his name (Matteo Thiela) which was followed in 2003 by the creation of his first perfume following the victory of the project dedicated to the “Limoni” fragrances. From there a series of valuable initiatives culminated in the partnership with Krizia (2006/2008), Agnona, for which he designed two collections of handbags and Mattioli (a limited edition jewelery collection).
However, his real “sliding doors” is represented by the presentation in 2014 of Bombyx, a method that allows you to give shape to unique clothes.
Matthew, what does this method consist of?
My method, which I have been refining and evolving for almost 10 years, is something very simple that however distorts the very ancient sartorial method. I create nets that become clothes using, as tools, pins, brushes and threads that I run through my fingers.
However, the craftsmanship of his patent can also be transformed into online, made-to-measure serial production of women’s clothes and accessories. What are the necessary steps for this development?
The steps to give it shape include, first of all, the creation of a software/app for functional devices to scan the measurements of the body, if you wanted to design a dress, of the head if the realization was a hat or feet for footwear. Through the Application, the colors, materials and shapes of the desired garment are chosen. The procedure to follow involves the definition of a hardware\space equipped for the production of garments with, on the walls, robotic arms that cover the customer’s chosen model with threads. My patent also offers the possibility of following the manufacturing process of your order online in streaming.
How are these achievements presented?
Communication takes place through events and temporary stores in strategic locations in the city.
What is the plus of Bombyx?
The required technological investments reduce costs and realization times, allowing you to obtain a tailor-made dream in a very short time at a negligible price.
How does D-House fit as an urban laboratory in this planning of yours?
The collaboration with D-House stems from the possibility of making my patent robotic with the aim of being able to produce clothes, fabrics or accessories made in 3D with yarns of all kinds. Proof of this one was my performance at Pitti Filati where I developed 2 dresses with my lathe and mixed yarns on a base made together with tulle D-House with 3D printed metallic drops. I think mixing technology and art is a very inspiring path.
The world of textiles represents a creative hotbed: are you working on other projects for the sector?
I would love to create yarns and fabrics to finally offer the market innovative and exciting products. Now my clothes are all handmade but, in the future, I imagine there are robots that produce clothes quickly.
