Style trends, Yarn
The Bolognese designer, author of "Post-Romantic Resonances", presented at Pitti Filati, explains the innovation underlying the project developed in collaboration with D-House urban laboratory

“I have known Tollegno 1900 for a long time because we have already collaborated for the FW23 season. We were together finalists for the Woolmark Prize. I remember perfectly that most of the knitwear of that season was made using 100%WV from Tollegno 1900. The versatility of this yarn allowed us to use it transversally within the collection, experimenting with a series of stitches and special processes. For this reason we decided to continue using it also for “Post romantic resonances”, to push it towards a new direction and integrate it into an experimental project like this one with D-house”. Marco Rambaldi, a designer from Bologna whose brand has been present in the Milan Fashion Week calendar for around 12 seasons, talks about the birth of the collaboration with the Biella brand. “Bologna – continues Rambaldi – is the city in which we live and work, we are linked to the community we frequent which inspires and stimulates us on a daily basis. Season after season we try to represent it and give it a voice, we talk to and about a real world, which already exists and which perhaps didn’t feel represented before. In a historical moment like the one we are experiencing, where quantity wins over quality, we believe in kindness, in human relationships, in post-romantic love.” And it is precisely romanticism that inspires the project that the creative presented at Pitti Filati.

How did the idea of “Post-Romantic Resonances” come about?

The project was born from a meeting between D-house urban laboratory and the Marco Rambaldi brand, both Italian companies that make contemporaneity their aim, albeit in different ways. However, what united us was the objective: to maintain Made in Italy and Italian craftsmanship in the present by making use of new technologies.

Some other players took part in the project, confirming how companies are interested in experimenting…

There is no doubt that, today, companies are very projected into the future and willing to carry out projects that can open up new paths. “Post romantic resonances”, specifically, is the result of the partnership between D-house urban laboratory and The Woolmark Company, but also of the contribution of other interlocutors. Specifically, wool from Filatura Tollegno 1900 was used to create the garments, while their production was entrusted to the SMT knitwear factory in Correggio, a Pattern Group company together with the Innovation Hub D-house.

What is the highly innovative aspect of this initiative suspended between fashion, creativity and new technologies?

The innovation of this project lies in telling a story and an aesthetic belonging to the common Italian imagination, expressing them through a contemporary language that draws both from the most innovative 3D printing techniques created by D-House and from the use of Swarovski. Its creation is the demonstration that, starting from a very high quality 100% wv thread made in Italy, it is possible to constantly innovate by writing the future we imagine starting from the past.

Do this open up new avenues for the world of knitwear?

This project serves as a nucleus of experimentation that opens up many opportunities. In fact, among knitted garments, several techniques meet and hybridize which bring into play a series of very different materials and processes. In the case of “Post-Romantic Resonances”, 3D printing, for example, works both alone on some parts of the garment, becoming an extension of the knitted stitch processes, and as a support in other parts. A support that goes hand in hand with the refinement of Swarovski which are not only applied, but also merge with the shirt through 3D printing. The back of the garment, however, remains completely clean. This project has shown us that a series of technical limits of the various processes can actually be a starting point for reflections that stimulate design.

No critical issues in the implementation?

In reverse! The technical limitations of the machines helped us define the garments during the creation and prototyping process. So the constant exchange between us, the knitwear factory and D-house made it possible not only to stem any critical issues but to build around being the project itself.

Can we expect any evolution of this project?

Yes, we’ll find out in February and we can’t wait!

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